I was brought up in Brigeport, Connecticut. I started playing pool in my early teens but at that time I never took it seriously. After high school and college, I started working as a machinist in a large corporation in Connecticut that made medical products. I started to play pool again but I needed a cue. I went out and bought my first two-piece cue stick. Some of the players on my team had joint protectors made of plastic on their sticks. I had an idea to make fancier joint protectors made of aluminum. The next day I went to work and wrote a program to make fancier joint protectors out of aluminum, and began making them on a C.N.C. lathe. Well, these joint protectors came out so good that the pool league players began placing orders for them. Then I received requests from local pool rooms to display them in their showcases. Soon, I purchased a small lathe, made some modifications to it, and began doing some cue repairs. After about three years of doing repairs, things were going so well that I experimented with making shafts.

In 1995, my family and I moved to New York (Rockland County). In my first week in Rockland County, I did some research and made a list of all of the local pool rooms. I visited each of the four local pool rooms, and three of them needed immediate repairs service, and immediately gave me some cue repair work. About a year later, one of the pool hall owners asked me to make him a custom cue. I did some research, ordered some bird's-eye wood and started to make a couple of cues with rings and stitching. These cues turned out great and were well liked by many of the local pool players. I guess you can say that this is how my cue business began.

At first, I started selling simple cues. Then I purchased some more machines, and began taking custom cue orders - based on design, color, inlay, etc. Everything on the cues I build is made by me except the tip and rubber bumper. I also like to use exotic woods for the forearm such as coco bolo, ebony, rosewood, bicote, etc. I feel that with the density and hardness of these woods, you really get a solid hit and feel. One thing I do different than most other cuemakers is that I use different metals to make the collars, pins, and other components so that you will always have a perfect balance without taking anything out of the woods. For example, if you order a cue with ebony and ivory points, you will get a solid ebony forearm. My cue finish is a 2 part DuPont clear coat. My standard wraps are made with Irish linen. Shafts are made of a rock hard maple that takes up to six months to cut. Currently my standard ferrules are linen based with LePro tips. I am in the process of doing some research on some different materials for new types of ferrules. That's the way I am -- constantly doing research to make the best cue for the money - both in appearance and gameplay/hit.